Day 12—Saturday, August 13—Sparwood to Elko, BC
36 miles by road (as the crow flies or the car drives is not the way the bike rides); 60F in the morning getting up to mid-80s
Got a good start from Mountain Shadows campground on a single track (path) that wove in and out of thick pine forest sun dappled berry bushes and required a fair amount of pushing up grades that are possible when you’re not carrying 35-40 lbs.
Fernie is a cool and hip town; three or four bike stores and good bagels at Big Bang Bagels. We agreed to meet up again in Elko, a much smaller town down the road. The next part of the trail was a combination of single track and gravel roads and now at mid-day the sun played more of a role. There was a slight headwind that came out of the shade that kept things cooler.
Along the path I came across a chasm (catastrophic wipe out of a former bridge) and had to backtrack to a trail that was a “black diamond” mountain bike trail more appropriate for someone with full suspension.
It was bumpy and I realized later that I had donated to the trail gods a small shovel, an extra bear spray canister, and sunscreen which, apparently, were not adequately tied down. I had to park the bike on a steep slope and retrace my steps uphill to find a stuff sack full of clothes that had fallen off.
Too much fun.
The trail led me to a road and to two barely passable gorges (bridges were complete missing) where I had to push up the bike to the other side.
Pretty tough in steep soft dirt. I had to filter some water at this point since I was getting pretty dry. I still had 20 miles to go and the day was getting long.
Because of the original missing bridge I had to find another way back to the established trail and fortunately was successful. The map has names for the road; unfortunately there are very few street signs so some guessing is involved. The final stretch to Elko was (apparently) on Lodgepole road which was wide and gravel with some long and steep climbs with gusting headwinds (woohoo). I was not ashamed to get off and push since that was probably faster.
I pulled into Elko which is tiny and being used as a staging and sleep area for forest fire fighters (there are a few fires in the area); found Andy at the only gas station, replenished some fluids, and we took off for 3 & 93 Dairy Bar, got a bite and tried to figure out where to camp.
The crickets and other insects are deafening. It was the hardest day so far with all of the single track. Also improvisation and working around glitches (missing bridges) takes a fair bit of mental energy that you don’t really use in bike touring on pavement (in my opinion)…more on that later!
What beautiful photos; I'm enjoying reading about your trip! Thx for sharing it. Can't wait to read on.
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