CHANGING Landscape

Day 49—Monday, September 19—Luders Creek campground to Del Norte, CO

66 miles 

The temperature overnight was 30 F and I was able to stay warm. Our sleep was disturbed only by a pack of passing coyotes who yipped, barked, and sang in their distinctive tenors. There was a baritone bark in there so it occurred to me that these might have been larger? My bear spray is now multi-carnivore spray and I will be grateful for my sake and any animal’s sake if I never have to use it.  

Erickson mentioned that the olfactory part of a bear’s brain makes up a disproportionate percentage of its volume. Their noses are amazing. Although we are no longer in grizzly country, black bears abound: we still need to keep our eyes open. Black bears are also more inquisitive and more likely to approach a campsite out of curiosity and to explore odors.

After packing up in the chilly morning we were treated to another long cold downhill as we pedaled out of the shadows and into the sun. The landscape started to change dramatically to rock outcroppings, buttes, and mesas.  

After a short stint on a paved highway we began a 10 mile climb on a gravel road up to Carnero Pass at 10,166 feet and then enjoyed a long descent. We turned a corner to a view of the valley below framed by jagged peaks in the morning haze beyond. It was truly breathtaking. 

We wound around rock gorges and narrow passes through tall rock formations

We were hoping to grab a bite at La Garita (40 miles into the day) but the cafe was closed on Mondays. The road from La Garita to Del Norte (pronounced Delnort) started on a washboarded gravel road which led to a smaller road. We began to climb again (didn’t expect that—my legs thought the climbing was over for the most part). This road brought us into a high plain of pinion pine enclosed by dramatic exposed rock. Eventually the trail turned to a double-track used by local mountain bikers and it was a fun roller coaster with magnificent views. Eric and TJ were cruising and I was lagging (typical late in the day). Eric waited at the last ridge and we rode down the final descent together which followed a dry creek filled with soft sand (treacherous—and reminded me that the two spills I've taken were in soft sand). Eventually we rolled into town around 4 pm, famished, eager for an early dinner.

Two-track mountain bike roller coaster

In case we were unsure…this is the only GDMBR signs we have seen in 2,000 miles!

Coming in to Del Norte

Eric got a hotel room and TJ and I accepted hospitality from Autumn and Ike, two young folk contacted via Warm Showers who let us camp in their backyard. Ike is an organic farmer, landscaper (native high desert design) and pig farmer.  

We have been keeping an eye on the weather. Storms are moving in: we thought we would have to stay over in Del Norte but it looks like the weather is going to hold off, giving us the opportunity to tackle the highest climb of the route: Indiana Pass and Stunner Pass at almost 12,000 ft (6,000 ft of vertical climbing). Then the weather is going to turn, which means snow at the high elevations.  

We will try to race the weather, climb over the two passes, and get to the next town. So stay tuned and I’ll let you know if we make it!

Onward!