GREAT Companions

Day 59—Thursday, September 29—Dispersed camping to just beyond San Mateo Springs 

52 miles

Eric and TJ: great traveling companions 

Given the water concerns of being in high desert and the lack of shade or cover—and the reality of needing to climb 5,000 vertical feet along the 50+ mile route—this day turned out to be as challenging as any we have had.  

The road conditions were fair and there were long stretches of deep soft sand and soft dirt where the road dove steeply in arroyos (dry stream beds at this time year): these made for some slow going. Despite being very distant from signs of civilization, we ran into a road crew regrading (smoothing) out the bumps in this sandy dirt track. Mixed bag: get rid of the bumps but add in piles of soft material. Also, mentally and physically exhausting to keep your bike upright while pedaling through the sand. Many times the bike just went sidewards.

But! The landscape was spectacular with many ship-sized buttes and interesting rock formations. The past two days provided some of the most compelling views of the entire ride.

Sunrise

Shadow selfie (Jungian?)

My immediate future

As for water, early in the day we found a well (Ojo Frio) that provided delish sweet water once you pushed the mosquito larvae out of the way. Twenty-five miles later we found a pipe gushing water that had strong hints of sulphur but was very drinkable. By the end of the day we filled up at San Mateo springs from a long hose that was connected to a spring above. So we were cared for. It’s easy to take clean drinking water for granted until you are in a condition of shortage or scarcity.

Ojo Frio well

Ojo Frio cattle trough

She and her shadow

Coiling and spoiling for a strike; heard him before I saw him. Midsized rattler about 2 ft long

As mentioned previously, despite traveling 35 miles in high desert, the last 15 miles required some significant climbing: more than I anticipated. We climbed into a ponderosa forest and camped yet again among the trees, which we have to appreciate after headwinds and crosswinds and shadeless topography.

It was a good day but it was a hard day. My legs were tired at the start and maybe got the idea that the trip was ending soon so why push?

The last few days have yet again reminded me of the mental challenge this trip demands, getting up every day and pushing on; something that will be required of Eric and TJ as they finish the last 385 miles.  

Eric making his way

The many shapes of the day (click on an image to enlarge)

Tomorrow it’s 20 miles downhill into Grants, NM where we will find the KOA ("there’s camping, and then there’s KOA") and meet Andy and say our farewells. TJ reminded me that we have ridden together for 1500 miles. Will miss Eric and TJ: great traveling companions.

TJ snapped this photo of my tent glowing from within at nightfall