Day 21—Monday, Aug 22—Lincoln to Llama Ranch
24 miles; hot
Heavy dew overnight postponed an early start as I waited for the sun to appear over the treetops to dry out my stuff. Treated myself to another shower, breakfasted, and hit the road on a gradual climb out of Lincoln on a wide, good gravel road.
Five miles before the summit, the directions pointed to a right turn up a smaller road. The directions also said that if you prefer a more gradual climb to the pass, stay on the wide road, but you’d be missing some beautiful woods and backcountry even though it’s steep. A sucker for beauty, I took the bait and the smaller road and almost immediately started to walk/push up a steep grade.
Further up it was possible to ride a bit until the road surface deteriorated and became steep…push.
Eventually I met Nicole, a young woman from Boulder, CO bravely riding from Mexico solo since June. She told me about Llama Ranch which was up ahead and recommended that I really must stop there.
After that it was mostly pushing up a hot, dusty, rutted road which raised questions in my mind about my sanity.
Finally reached the top and plopped down to have lunch. Paul and Arend (the South Africans) soon appeared riding up the same hill. Pretty impressive. They said they were going to Llama Ranch and after a short visit, we headed down on a terrific descent eventually arriving at the Ranch.
Llama Ranch is an oasis for bikers established by Barbara who, with her partner John, makes Llama Ranch's four acres into every wandering biker's four acres. Arriving at the main house there is a sign: “bikers, if we are not home, please help yourself to a cold drink (beer, water, soda, choc milk) and sandwich from the fridge on the porch. Then find a cabin to sleep in as long as it isn’t reserved."
We got a drink and a sandwich and then made our way to the “cabins” which are an eclectic group of various sheds, cabins, and bunkhouses.
I had leap-frogged with most of these folks so it was good to see them again. I had met Dana and Cor previously in Big Fork. It was Dana’s birthday so I relinquished my stake in the wagon and tented instead.
Back on the porch it was a convivial time sharing stories without the awkwardness that often accompanies meeting new folks. The fact that we are all traveling creates a level starting place for dialog.
John and Barbara and Barbara’s aunt returned home to about 12 bikers…they went over the ground rules. The gist of the Llama Ranch is to provide a hospitable place for bike travelers; they accept no donations but only ask that we pay forward the hospitality. Amazing place.
In lieu of llamas, these days the ranch is home to four alpacas. Surrounding the property are free ranging cows, bulls, and calves—who mooed and called all night long with some of the most extraordinary sounds I had ever heard from cows. They sounded a little like the sounds I make on a grueling uphill!
Llama Ranch is a special place. Barbara had the ranch before the bike route came through in 1998 and she adapted it to the new reality of international travelers passing by every day. John was biking through around five years ago and, after repeat visits and correspondence ... stayed! Talk about how being hospitable can change your life!
Incidentally they shear and collect the alpaca 🦙 wool; have it cleaned and carded and will ship to interested weavers. So let me know if you’re interested!
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