Day 43—Tuesday, September 13—Radium to just south of Silverthorn
58 miles
Today promised some serious climbing effort. TJ left on a tear since he was trying to connect with a friend to the south. He planned to avoid Ute Pass and take the highway to save time. From the maps, we (royal) had to do two climbs totaling about 3,500 feet: good practice for the passes to come.
The first 20 miles were up over a watershed divide, then down towards the town of Kremmling. From there, the road took a circuitous route, bypassing Kremmling and going behind the Williams Fork Mountains, then following Reeder Creek up a long valley climbing steadily toward Ute Pass. I met few people along the way and just stuck to climbing. I did see a couple of brilliant mountain bluebirds perched on a pasture fence post. They did not light long enough for me to capture them in a pic; just beautiful and so blue.
We passed some reservoirs and then really started to climb in the last five miles: two lowest gears grinding up to the pass. I was dodging obvious rain squalls all around and searched for some shelter (abandoned house, barn, pig sty, grove of trees) for when it did rain.
I passed some campgrounds that didn’t suit me and then I was in the land of Henderson Mill (a mining operation that looked like a space ship had landed on top of the mountain). Not sure what they were mining but their proprietary ownership of every inch of land abutting the road made clear that campers were not invited.
I pushed on to the top knowing there was a campground on the other side in the next valley.
The ride down was spectacularly fun with the next valley before me and the sun setting in a cloudy sky. I was able to dodge the storms and the downhill road from Ute Pass (9,500 ft) deposited me on Route 9 which would have taken me north to Kremmling if I wanted. I chose south toward Silverthorn with exhausted legs, followed a sign to a parking area, which turned out to be a recreation area where camping was allowed.
I found a lovely spot under a pine tree next to the Blue River (from which I had filtered water when I was up by Kremmling earlier in the day).
As I was getting ready to filter more water, John, 29, came by with two beers and a jug of water. An avid bike packer and now living in a van with his partner, he knew how I felt at the end of the day. He is from upstate New York, has been living the van life for several years, works when he needs to (Amazon) and then travels. He is also an ultramarathoner.
Long day, sun going down, made some food, drank some beer, out like a light.
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