Comfortable DESCENT

Days 35 & 36—September 5 & 6—Strawberry Creek Emergency Shelter to Pinedale, WY

60 miles

Dawn ... and the road ahead

Unlike the previous day, Labor Day would be mostly downhill. Woke before the sun did, packed up and got on the road at sunrise trying to cover 60 miles to get to the bike store to have some work done on my bike's brakes and tires.

Long gradual descent that would follow a mountain stream in the direction of its flow: down, which is always fun.

Elk horn head by the side of the road. This photo is offered in respect for an animal even in death. There is an ancient migratory path between Pinedale and Jackson Lake that is seriously threatened by development. People tout the fences, guides, and highway underpasses that have been erected to help with the migration. But with the four-wheel drive noise in the summer and the snowmobiles in the winter, plus the number of houses being built, it seems that this path is seriously threatened.

People have been kind: one guy stopped, rolled down his window and offered a water bottle, another stopped to make sure I was OK when I lay down my bike to take a photo.

Since my phone was dying, photos from the road again today were spare. One change: after what had been spectacularly clear and blue skies, the winds must have shifted to blow some smoke into the area.  You could smell it, which made me wonder about the effect on my lungs.

The early start made it possible to avoid the infernal four wheel drive vehicles, so that was a plus. It was a beautiful and comfortable descent. Eventually, after leaving the national forest, the road turned to pavement for the next 30 miles which made it possible to increase the mph. 

I rolled into Pinedale to learn that the bike store was closed for the Labor Day holiday. Molly had researched and made a reservation for me at the Gannett Peak Lodge which is a renovated Civilian Conservation Corps barracks from the Franklin Roosevelt era. The staff is terrific and it is very comfortable. Since the bike could not be serviced, I decided to take a day off (zero day) and spend two nights. 

When your bandanna can stand up in a corner from salt, it’s time to do the laundry. At Gannett Peak Lodge, housekeeping staff cheerfully do laundry for you for free if you are a biker or hiker.

 

Took myself out to Los Cabo’s, a local Mexican restaurant and got the real deal on the cuisine.  Polished that off and a pitcher of ice water. Got fried chicken and potato salad at the grocery store to load up calories.

Tuesday: got the bike to the shop to fix the brakes, and decided to remove the inner tubes and go tubeless ... basic de rigueur for bike packing. In lieu of a tube, you fill the tire with some liquid sealant that plugs holes when they occur. We’ll see how it goes, but I am so hoping it reduces tire repair.

Street art and street commentary in Pinedale…many points of view

TJ arrived about 11:30 a.m. and needed to do some bike mechanics so he’ll share the cost of the room tonight (had an extra bed).

Gannett Peak Lodge, former Civilian Conservation Corps barracks

Mostly chilling today: replenished some of my clothing supply, including decent sneakers and a belt at the thrift store!

Got a lesson on tubeless tires, sat in a cafe and watched the world go by.  TJ, John and Elizabeth (from Olympia) arrived today and we’re headed out for dinner tonight.