Day 32—Friday, September 2—Warm River to Flagg Ranch
Got up before the sun to attempt an early start since we knew we were going to have to climb over the northern flank of the Grand Tetons to get to their eastern side. My phone and battery charger were nearly depleted so I visited the picnic pavilion to find folks setting up there for a family reunion. I don’t think they minded me plugging in.
When I returned to the campsite, TJ mentioned that our camping neighbors, Alicia and Amanda from San Diego, we’re heating up last night's dinner leftovers: beef stroganoff with cognac and red wine (that oughta get me up the trail). We chatted with them for a bit while their husbands slept in. Amanda had done some bike touring and knew that the unusual breakfast would be welcome. What a treat!
The day began with a long climb and then a slight descent into a broad and cultivated valley. At some point we could see the western face of the Grand Tetons in the morning haze and rising sun. I was filled with great expectations since I had not seen these mountains since a childhood trip with family. Also, I felt a little trepidation: they looked very far away and I knew we would be on the other side by the evening.
We plugged along together and then, per the usual pattern of biking with someone who is stronger (and younger), TJ took off. We planned to communicate by text later in the day.
The trail wound upwards through pine forests with occasional glimpses of the Tetons. The trail got steeper as I went up and over the flank and then descended through a beautiful high meadow and the Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve. The connection for New Englanders is the Rockefeller family’s philanthropy and their donation of Acadia National Park where the family is still active in preservation and conservation. Controversial though philanthropy from "robber baron" era fortunes may be—apparently they donated big time out here too and preserved hundreds of thousands of acres of natural habitat for flora and fauna.
Eventually I dropped down into Flagg Ranch by way of an extremely bumpy road and headed for the lodge for cold drinks (I just can’t overstate how refrigeration becomes an obsession on a hot dry day, especially when the sun heats up your water bottle to bathwater temperatures).
I heard from TJ that he felt good enough to go on to the next campground at Colter Bay so we’d meet up later down the road.
At Flagg Ranch I reconnected with Inge and Jan from Amsterdam (previously met at Holland Lake, ironically, and then at Llama Ranch). We split the cost of the campsite (crazy price at $47); set up camp, and then shared a delightful dinner at the Lodge. Until recently, Inge was a forensic police officer who pieced together accounts of traffic accidents using data from black boxes from cars (who knew?). Especially in fatal accidents or if the driver fled the scene, she could detect speed, direction, and what happened prior to the crash. Inge said it often gave solace to people who lost loved ones. She also rode a horse to help break up riots following football (soccer) games. Her main love is wild nature photography: "You might get one or two opportunities to get the perfect shot." That puts things in perspective! She is 50 and has a daughter and son in their 20s.
Jan did a lot of sustainability coaching for individuals and companies to help them become more effective. He is 50 and has a step-daughter. They met online and have been together for 18 months.
I think I convinced them to abandon the GDMBR and go see other national parks in the southwest (they had just visited Yellowstone) like Arches, Zion, Bryce, and Grand Canyon. I might have chosen to do the same if I had never visited these places.
Equipment Notes 1: despite being lashed securely, or so I thought, the trail gods exacted another sacrifice: my New Balance sneakers and a belt rolled up inside. I loved that belt.
Equipment Notes 2: I've had a few flats since the bike shop in Helena changed my tire: trying to figure out what is up; as a consequence, tipping the bike upside down to remove and fix the tire has affected the hydraulics in my braking system so I don’t have full brakes and I am days away from a bike shop. Stay tuned!
Body Notes: knee has been doing very well as long as I feed it the "Vitamin I" (ibuprofen) regimen. I love this knee.
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