Day 33—Saturday, September 3—Flagg Ranch to Pinnacles Campground
65 miles
I zapped a breakfast burrito at the lodge general store, chatted with the clerk who was from North Andover, MA and never going back (he says). Bid farewell to the Netherlanders and got going.
Most of the first part of today was on paved roads with rolling hills (ups and down). Very chilly start (high 40s) and it took a while for the sun to come over the mountains to my east: a spectacular morning with every hint of autumn in the air. Crossing a bridge, I saw two enormous beavers working on their lodge (tip to tail about 36”): took a pic but the lens fogged up in the cold so please take my word for it!
I passed TJ at Colter Bay (he texted to say he was taking a zero day, or day off). By this time the Tetons came into full view behind Jackson Lake which looked almost dry compared to when it is at capacity. It was quite a shock: think Lake Mead.
Panorama of a very low Jackson Lake
I made it to the Moran P.O. and picked up a box of freeze-dried Adventure Meals. Thx Molly! Always interested in dropping weight, I mailed home a bunch of stuff that I had not been using. Moran is also the name of a mountain that looks sort of like the Matterhorn from a certain angle.
Mt. Moran
Hey bear...amazing animals
Several different views of the Grand Tetons as I move east away from them
Buffalo Valley
I eventually entered Buffalo Valley on a exquisite back road (paved), stopped at a cafe for a sandwich and a cold drink with free refills, and then began to climb a gravel road that was miles long.
I met John and Elizabeth, bikers from Olympia WA who were having lunch and mentioned I still had 15 miles of climbing (wha?!). Sometimes it’s better not to look ahead at the map. The trail became a two track road, constantly climbing, that brought me out to Togwotee Lodge (where hundreds of skidoos had just been delivered in anticipation of winter activities). Got a cold drink and a sandwich and started up the next leg to Togwotee Pass which was about 9,600 feet and another crossing of the continental divide.
This was a highway so there was nothing to do but put it in low gear and find ways to break up the climb: stop after 300 rotations of the pedals, sing, memorize actuarial tables, whatever. Oh, and the views were amazing (have to remember to look up sometimes).
View along the trail: keeping an eye out for grizzlies; mostly trying not to surprise them
View of where I will be headed next. I called my brother Paul from this spot the day after he retired. Congratulations to Paul: one of the most conscientious, innovative, practical, and hardworking men I know!
Some of my photos turned out fuzzy so I’ll just have to describe that the flora was really taking on autumn colors: the fireweed that had been abundant most of this trip was beginning to go to seed and its leaves turning red.
At the pass, I hoped to be rewarded with a long downhill, but the path took me off the highway onto a dirt road that passed Wind River Lake where I was able to filter some water (haven’t gotten sick yet!) then on to a heavily rutted road. Along the bumpiness, I groaned when I realized one of my sacks that contained most of my clothing had disappeared from its front fork cage/harness. Ugh. It could be 20 feet back; it could be three miles back. I lay down the bike and cross-trained (walked) back to where I found the familiar little bag, just waiting where I dropped it.
After a few uphills (and some late day cranky comments to provide the soundtrack) I started on a long descent.
I came upon a dude ranch (politely and inclusively and generically called “guest” ranches) and rode past the sign “only registered dudes” to the front door. Anna, a pleasant and friendly young woman, disengaged herself from the football game she was watching with other dudes. She did not blanch at my feral appearance so I asked 1) could she sell me something cold to drink, as in beer, and 2) were there any campgrounds around? She said she could not sell me any beer but she could give me some. And that she did in the form of two cans of Jenny Lake (up by Jackson) and added two packs of Doritos. In complete gratitude, I let her get back to her guests and I headed down the road to Pinnacles campground that was situated above Brooks Lake.
I was looking forward to a swim to cool off, but an older and wiser couple warned me that the lake has blue-green algae that can be fatal if ingested. (There was also a sign.) I didn't catch their names, but the man also mentioned that blue-green algae is the source of all life. I asked him if anyone ever told him he reminded them of an older Clint Eastwood (he said no, but he got a good laugh out of it…so did his wife). They were from Springfield, IL where I masterplanned a revitalized public housing development, so I had the chance to tell them how good my experience was with the local folks in Springfield!
With no option for a swim, I trudged back up to my campsite and at least cooled off my insides with chips and beer.
Beautiful setting at Pinnacles:
Day 34 preview: sunrise
Stunning scenery!!!
ReplyDelete