ROLLER Coaster

Day 37—Wednesday, September 7—Pinedale to South Pass City dispersed camping 

78 miles; 80s with a breeze

TJ, Elizabeth Siegel, and John Browning getting ready to go

Hoping that the repairs I had on my bike would give me confidence in some trouble-free riding, I discovered that the front tire (that had a gash plugged) lost air overnight. Fortunately, the mechanic at the bike shop had given me his cell phone number so I met him at 7:30 am and he put a new tire on. Unfortunately, the brake work to repair the hydraulics lasted five miles and I am without rear brakes again (which is not the end of the world).  

I haven't met any other bikers experiencing such persistent mechanical issues and it does put a dent in the day-to-day enjoyment of the ride by adding a bit of stress and worry. I am speaking to the mechanic in Pinedale to get ideas…next bike shop is probably six days away.

Spiffy new tire

Good long ride out of Pinedale, the first 25 miles or so we were on pavement and averaged about 13 mph, which was amazing. (The new tire I got is faster—less knobby—so it was fun to speed along, even without rear brakes!)

Making time on the pavement before hitting gravel

We eventually caught up to John and Elizabeth from Olympia who had left an hour earlier. We had shared a delish Mexican dinner with them in Pinedale the previous night. Nice to see some older folks on the trail! John (66) is a retired forest pathologist who worked for Weyerhaeuser (lumber products) and Elizabeth is a nurse practitioner who serves the Nisqually tribe near Olympia.  

Where the alpaca roam

Before the climb

Roller coaster

The ride climbed a 1,000 ft in elevation to a high bench and then was like a roller coaster with many ups and downs. We checked out a campground after 50 miles but it had stagnant water and lots of cow pies. Having covered a good distance before early afternoon, we pushed on and found a rest area with water and then continued to find dispersed camping near South Pass City. This place has an interesting history: Knotts Berry Farm, a western-themed amusement park in Southern California, wanted to purchase and deconstruct the town’s historic buildings and move them to the park. Local folks got together and outbid Knotts Berry Farm and kept their town.

An example of good gravel, approaching the Wind River range

Wind River range

A glimpse of the Great Basin

Our route passed the southern edge of the Wind River Range which looked magnificent, and then followed a ridge above the Great Basin which we will enter on day 38. Difficult to capture the expanse of the Great Basin landscape but it looks like high desert. Very dry, so water management will be important (there is a gushing well and a reservoir in about 135 miles).

The weather has been merciful. With heat waves all around, the temp here got to 87 yesterday but with a gentle and somewhat coolish breeze. Temps are expected to reach only the high 50s in the next few days. On to the Great Basin.

John and Dan from Westminster, CO stopped and filled up a water bottle for me. It was then I noticed my newly acquired sneakers had flown off the bike at some point (I know, I know). They offered and succeeded at finding them and bringing them back to me…saints! They are rekindling their backpacking relationship after many years of not backpacking at all (sounds familiar). Many thanks to John and Dan for their kindness.

TJ brushing his teeth in the fading light

End of a good day